Ballast / Keel Bolt Rusting

  • Most of the time you can clean the bolts with a wire brush and paint them with a rust inhibitor. This should be done yearly. While the head of the bolt may be rusted, the structural integrity of the shank of the bolt is usually not compromised. If you're cleaning the bolts and the material is flaking off, it's probably time to replace them.

  • The boat does not have to be out of the water to change the keel bolts. Change them one at a time if the boat is in the water.

  • A complete methodology is available at your request.

Ballast / Routine Maintenance On Keel To Hull Joint

Visually inspect the keel to hull joint. It is not uncommon to have a small (1/8") gap at the front and rear seam of the keel to deck joint. This is caused by the keel having a flat top and the hull having a rounded shape. The gap should be cleaned with mineral spirits, allowed to dry and filled with 3-M 5200 Marine Adhesive.

Cradles / Cradles

Aftermarket cradles and cradle specifications are not available from Beneteau USA.

Deck Fittings / Anchors

  • Various sea and bottom conditions require different anchoring systems. Your dealer can help in choosing rode size and length, anchor chains, and working and storm anchors most appropriate for your boat and location.

  • In general, a minimum of two anchors should be carried at all times and enough anchor rode and chain necessary for the depth of water to be navigated during storm conditions.

Deck Fittings / Chainplate Leaks

Standard methodology and time required to re-bed chain plates:

Mark studs on shrouds with tape or marker prior to loosening rig so you can return to the same rig tune. Loosen V1's and D1's/babystay.

Drop main sail and lay on deck if it is roller furling. Pull topping lift, Genoa, and main halyards to whichever side the chainplate removal is needed and secure. Remove turnbuckles on affected side.

Measure or mark chainplate tie-rod threads to return to same setting. Loosen tie-rod turnbuckle to remove tie-rod. Remove 2 chainplate bolts. Remove and rebed chainplate.

Reverse the above procedure and return to the marked settings on all turnbuckles or the same rig tune. Top off tie rod cavity with silver silicone.

Note: If roller furling, it is possible to do with mainsail on if keel stepped mast or with extra halyards.

Deck Fittings / Leaking Portlights

Remove the black seal that separates the two aluminum frames from the exterior of the port light. Clean the area with alcohol and let dry completely.

*Do not get the alcohol on the green plexiglass *

Fill the newly open seam with black silicone. Clean and smooth.

Deck Fittings / Teak Bonding

  • Remove 3 cm of black silicone in at least in 2 places at the level of the unglued area (eventually more depending on the unglued surface).

  • Drill 1/16" holes just through the teak approximately 1" a part in the area of removed silicone.

  • Blow compressed air to remove water.

  • Through the 1/16" holes inject polyurethane glue {3M 5200}.

  • Push down the teak slats. You can screw the slats down with some small screws and cover with a teak bungs. You will need to apply heavy weight for a minimum of 24 / 36 hours.

  • Reapply black silicone.

Electrical System and Gas / Battery Switch Operation

Never turn the negative battery switch off while engine is running. Never turn all positive switches off while engine is running. Battery 1 is the engine / start battery Battery 2 is the service / house battery Negative battery switch controls ground {DC12V negative} for all batteries. To charge a battery with the engine the positive switch must be in the on position.

WARNING: Do not turn both positive battery switches off while engine is running!

  • Everything is OFF, no 12V DC power (When leaving the boat unattended)

  • Everything is ON, 12VDC power available to start engine and/or run equipment

  • Configuration to start engine, while house/service is off or down You can turn house switch ON, while engine is running to charge house

  • Engine is off, Run equipment from house only (like at anchorage)

Electrical System and Gas / Wiring Diagrams

Not all model specific wiring diagrams are available. However, throughout the production Beneteau line all circuits are numbered for specific grid groups and/or a specific item. The circuit numbers are usually found in the boat owner manual with the WAGO DC panel drawings under the electrical section.

Engine System / Anode Replacement

There is no set timetable for replacing the prop anodes.  Anode consumption is to be closely monitored. Replace as needed.

Engine System / Remember To Inspect Your Control Cables

Regular inspections and maintenance of your control cables and their securing devices are essential to keeping you and your boat heading in the right direction. We recommend steering, shift, and throttle cables be inspected at least twice a season. A simple visual inspection may uncover a potential problem in the future. Here are a couple of tips on what to look for.

  • Check all securing devices, clamps and brackets for tightness. If any cotter pins or spring clips are missing or worn due to vibration they should be replaced.

  • Lubricate any moving linkages and sheaves if needed and check for signs of any corrosion.

  • Make sure the cables are clear of fuel lines, wiring or any other cables or chafe points.

  • Check for cable alignment. Vibration can cause cable brackets to loosen and misalign. This can lead to poor cable performance and may lead to failure.

  • Examine the cable jacket for any irregularities. Bumps, cracks, cuts, or kinks. This is best done by "feel". Bumps & cracks are signs of corrosion. If any are found, it is time to replace the cable.

Performing this maintenance item on a regular basis will ensure to keep you and your boat heading in the right direction.

Engine System / Volvo Shaft Seal

Volvo recommends that the shaft seal be greased with water resistant grease every 200 engine hours or at least once a year. You can purchase the Volvo grease from our customer service department. The part number is 456174.

Gelcoat - Fiberglass / Antifouling

There are many variables to consider when choosing your anti-fouling. It is important to select a product that has proven to be effective for your specific area. We recommend speaking with your Beneteau dealer or marine paint retailer in your local area.

Gelcoat - Fiberglass / Gelcoat Cracks

Gel coat is not elastic. One can and should expect that after a period of time, gelcoat will craze, crack, or blister. This is not an uncommon with any FRP items. It is well documented that as boats age, the gelcoat will deteriorate. Fortunately, gelcoat cracks are almost always cosmetic.

Gelcoat - Fiberglass / Gelcoat Repairs

For small scratches, cracks and nicks, there is a Beneteau Gelcoat Repair Kit available from your dealer or direct from Beneteau. Instructions are included with the repair kit and more details can be found at

Gelcoat - Fiberglass / Methodology For Antifouling When New

  1. Clean and degrease hull thoroughly using a denatured ethyl alcohol
  2. Sand hull using sandpaper with a minimum grit of #220. (i.e., 220, 300, or 400)
  3. Rinse with fresh water. DO NOT USE DETERGENTS. DO NOT WASH
  4. Apply anti-fouling to manufacturer's directions

NOTE: It cannot be emphasized enough that thorough de-waxing must occur. Furthermore, if the gel coat is abraded with coarse sandpaper, the water imperviousness will be destroyed, and the warranty might be voided.

Interior Accommodation / Duratouch Cushions

Care and Cleaning:

  • Day to Day Soil: Remove ordinary smudges with a mild soap and warm water solution. Dry with a soft, lint free cloth or towel. For more difficult stains, use a stronger detergent: however, follow the detergent manufacturer's instructions carefully.
  • More Difficult Stains: Use non-abrasive household cleaners such as formula 409 All Purpose Stain cleaner or Fantastik Spray Cleaner with water and a soft cloth. A mild solvent type cleaner such as rubbing alcohol may be used. Apply moderately with a soft cloth. Dry area with another soft cloth, rinse area and dry.
  • Non-Upholstery Applications: May be machine washed in cold water on a gentle cycle. Do not bleach. Tumble dry in low or air dry. You can have the covers dry cleaned.

Interior Accommodation / Headliner Replacement

One of our owners shared this methodology. Many owners have used it with positive results.

Headliner Method

I just recently replace the entire headliner in my First 345 and have done several cars, motor homes and boats. First step is to go to a good automotive trim shop and pick out headliner material - you want one with about 1/8" of foam to cover up imperfections/bumps of which you will find plenty. It is much cheaper to buy it by the roll. Boats US has a nice but limited selection which are designed for marine use but are more expensive - the automobile types are very durable even in marine use. Some of the large fabric stores also carry it but in very standard colors.

You will also need glue. 3M headliner or vinyl top glue in spray cans works well. There are others but make sure you get spray cans because something in a can that you have brush on is going to be difficult in tight areas. The stuff in cans (Weld wood works well) is much cheaper though. Use a petroleum based glue - the water based ones don't work well.

Next, take out the wood divider strips (if you have them) and unscrew the plywood panels. Take off all of the old material and use a wire brush to clean the plywood well. Cut the cloth (allowing plenty of excess to fold around the sizes). Spray 2-3 coats of the 3M headliner spray on the plywood and 2-3 coats on the foam. Wait a few minutes and bond them together. Then turn over, glue the excess down in the same manner and follow up with staples (you will see a lot of old staples on the back).

On large V-birth areas or Beneteau without the plywood strips. Remove all of the old headliner and use it as a pattern to cut the new - cut the new slightly larger because you will have difficulty fitting it as well as the factory and will often be inches off. Clean the old foam off, vacuum everything and do the 2-3 coats of spray - but in only in one corner (start with a straight corner). Then take with the headliner partially glued - work on sections at a time - gluing them and pasting them up as you go. Don't do too much a one time. Don't worry about excess material - it can be trimmed off later - after gluing.

Repairs can be done in the same manner but you need new material. It is almost impossible to reglue old headliner material unless it is pretty new or just one panel that can also be stapled.

Interior Accommodation / Interior Wood Cleaning

Use mild soap and fresh, clean water.

Interior Accommodation / OC331 Microwave Removal

The microwave is secured by four bolts. Access to the bolts can be found through an access panel in the sail locker. Remove the panel, loosen the nuts. The microwave will then slide forward.

Lifting Keel Maintenance

Maintenance can be carried out before the boat is relaunched, taking advantage of her position in the straps to drop the keel. Carefully clean the inner sides of the keels housing, remove any seaweed and barnacles. Check the threaded bronze bolt (mark 3). Systematically grease the threaded rod on its full height with marine grease (mark 4) Motul LC 300 type or similar, check the condition of the nylon bush (mark 7). After checks are finished, work the mechanism up and down 2 or 3 times to make sure it is functionning well. 
The bronze nut is a wearing part and as such a part must be annually checked and replaced if necessary. 
To perform this operation, follow the below described methodology: - boat on cradle or held on straps - liffting keel in lower position 
1. Unscrew bolt (mark 1)to disconnect the mechanism from the lifting keel. Be careful not to lose the nylon bush (mark 7). 
2. In the cabin, unscrew the two screws that hold the nylon bracket (mark 2) in position on top of the keel housing. 
3. Pull out the all mechanism. 
4. Unscrew the brass nut (mark 3), which was originally screwed with thread glue. Warm up the part if necessary. 
5. Take the threaded rod (mark 4) out of the tube (mark 5). 
6. Unscrew bolt THM8 (mark 6) located at the end of the endless screw (mark 4). 
7. Unscrew entirely the endless screw to get the brass nut. 
8. Screw the new nut on the endless screw, and the bolt THM8 with some light thread glue. 
9. Put the endless screw back in the tube, with marine grease type Motul LC300 or similar. 
10. Screw back the brass nut on the tube with strong thread glue. 
11. Reinstall the mechanism doing the operation in the opposite order.

Navigation Equipment / Is There A Velocity Prediction Program (VPP) For My Boat?

  • There are a limited number of VPP available.

  • Your dealer has access to this information through our website.

Rigging / Mast Maintenance

An informative mast maintenance guide is available at US Spars' website, along with tuning guides and other useful information. Please visit:

Rigging / Rig Dimensions

Refer to your owners' manual or you can find the specifications for the boat model on the web page

Rigging / Tuning And Sail Trim Guides

Unfortunately, we do not have tuning guides. Your dealer, Sailmaker or a competent rigger can assist you with rig tuning. Neil Pryde has published rigging and tuning guides. These guides are available for download here:

Rigging / Your Roller Furling Main

Now that you've had the entire summer to sail your Beneteau, you've most likely had the opportunity to test your the performance of your boat in a variety of conditions. Recently, commonly asked questions have concerned the roller furling main - what are the advantages and disadvantages? And what can be done to enhance performance?

The roller furling main is ideal for cruising. It has many advantages -- it's easy to handle and performs great in heavy air. However, disadvantages in performance can arise when sailing in light air. With some small adjustments and by paying close attention to your sail shape, you will find that performance can be increased. Try some of the sailing tips discussed below and see for yourself what a difference they can make!

When sailing in light air, it is important to ease your outhaul, giving the sail some shape. Do not over sheet. Upwind, it is better to foot off a bit than to pinch. When on a reach, try easing your outhaul and shape the sail with your van. On a downwind leg, shape your sail with your outhaul and van. A Gennaker can greatly improve your performance in this situation as well.

When sailing in a stronger breeze, try flattening the main with the outhaul so you don't have to reef as early. When you do need to reef, it is very easy to do so.

The roller furling main is a great option, not only because of it's ease of handling, but it can prolong the life of your sail as well. Although requiring a little more attention in light air, overall the roller furling is ideal for cruising or sailing with a limited crew.

Spare Parts

If your local dealer is not a parts stocking dealer, you can contact Beneteau USA spare parts department at 843-629-5320. Parts can be purchased online at Please visit our website to register for your user name and password.

Steering / Emergency Tiller Drills

This is a 2-part test...

A) Do you know where your emergency tiller is? If you're like most of us, it's probably buried deep in the sail locker underneath endless lines, sails and old fenders

B) Do you know how to work your emergency tiller? Have you actually "dug" your emergency tiller out of the sail locker, installed it, and tried to steer your boat with it?

As redundant as it may sound, once a year you need to have an Emergency Tiller Drill. Before you head out next time, take 15 minutes at the dock and have your family and crew participate in locating and installing your emergency tiller. Whether you're cruising the harbor or crossing an ocean, knowing where and how to use your emergency tiller could save lives in a threatening situation.

Steering / Rudder Leaks

This is a common and expected occurrence as the heavy side loads put on a rudder will cause a flexing of the rudder blade to rudder shaft joint.

  • Drill a couple of 1/4 holes at the bottom of the rudder along the bottom edge. This will allow water to weep out. The process can be enhanced by removing the rudder and storing in a dry, warm location.

  • Once dry, fill the holes with epoxy filler. Touch up with anti fouling. If rudder was removed, a small fillet of marine grade polyurethane applied around the rudder stock to blade joint will slow the water ingress.

Water System / AC Winterizing

In water: Close the seacock and remove the inlet water hose from the air conditioner. Allow all the water to drain from the system. Loosen the screws on the pump head to allow the water to drain from the pump. Drain and clean the seawater strainer.

Out of the water: Leave the seacock open.

Water System / Fresh Water Leaks

If your water pump continues to cycle. You likely have a leak on the pressure side. First, inspect all fitting and clamps for signs of leaking on the pressure side. Leaks can be difficult to find. Any suspect fitting, or section of hose {very slow leak} can be wrapped with toilet paper to see if over time it gets wet to help identify location. On the supply side it is helpful to add food coloring to the freshwater tanks to help locate any leak. 

Water System / Water Pump Impellers

First you should check for what your engine owner manuals recommend. As a general rule, the pump impeller should be changed every 2 seasons or 100 hours of use under normal clean water operating conditions.

Water System / Winterizing Tips

If you are a new boat owner or have no experience in winterizing, please hire a professional to do the job.

Inboard: Check your engine manual for recommendations by the engine manufacturer.

Sail Drive: Check your engine manual for recommendations by the engine manufacturer.

Fuel: Fill your fuel tank to avoid condensation over the winter. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product. Change the fuel filter and water separation filter.

Bilges: Make sure the bilge is clean and dry.

Fresh water system: Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect them together. Pump nontoxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the faucets including the shower and wash down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater.

Head: Pump out the holding tank. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush it several times. Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose.

Interior: Remove all valuables, electronics, PFDs, fire extinguishers, flares, etc. Check them over the winter and replace as needed. If possible, remove the cushions and store in a controlled climate. If not, turn the cushions on the edges. This will allow air to circulate around them. Clean the refrigerator and freezer. Leave them open. You may consider using a dehumidifier or a commercial moisture absorber.

Out of Water Storage: Pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain. Remove the batteries and take them home. The batteries should be put on a trickle charger or charged every 30-60 days.

In Water Storage: Close all seacocks. Thoroughly check for any signs of leaking. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Check bilge pump and float switch. Make sure to check your boat periodically.